The next series of posts will be about our again short, three-day, but very eventful trip to the south of Croatia. I’ve been to Dubrovnik many times, so we drove past it and the first stop on our way was the city of Ston, located on the isthmus connecting the mainland with the elongated Peljesac peninsula. Actually, these are two separate towns of Veliki and Maliston, located on opposite slopes of the same mountain, connected by two lines of medieval fortress walls. Today's post will be dedicated to the Big Ston, separate posts will be about walking along the wall and the Lesser Ston.
As always, a little history at the beginning. This area was inhabited back in the era of the Illyrians and Romans. Activity begins to manifest itself in the early Middle Ages, when various Slavic proto-states - zhupas - were fighting for the peninsula. The church and the remains of old buildings have been preserved there to this day. (Unfortunately, on that trip, this place fell out of my field of attention, like something else, but I will definitely catch up on this in the future). At the beginning of the 14th century, the city was taken over by the Dubrovians. It is then that the construction of two separate cities begins, connected by walls and protected fortresses. This place was very important for Dubrovnik both strategically and economically. Ston's fortification system protected the peninsula from the land, and most importantly, it defended Solana, a salt mining site that still functions today. In those days, when there were no refrigerators, salt was a strategic product, compared with today's oil, and the possession of such a serious source of income was simply vital for the Dubrovnik Republic, which, in order to maintain virtual independence, had to constantly pay tribute to its formidable neighbors - at first Byzantium, then the Serbs and Bosnians, and then the Turks. This continued until the beginning of the 19th century, the time of the end of the Dubrovnik Republic. After the Napoleonic Wars, these lands went to the Austrians, who dismantled part of the walls, which had lost their military significance.
During our stay in Ston, the autumn Balkan weather constantly changed from gently sunny to threateningly cloudy and back again. But it didn't come to rain. Therefore, do not be surprised by the completely different skies in the photographs. They were all made almost at the same time.
2. The first thing a traveler who arrives in Veliki Ston (or more often just Ston) usually sees is this picture. The city, the fortress wall above it and two walls encircling the mountain and leading to Maly Ston. The row of houses that you see on the left was also closed by a wall in the past; the Austrians dismantled it as unnecessary in the 19th century.
3. The city blocks are regularly drawn rectangles. We went for a walk among the old buildings of Ston, to explore the city, and at the same time have a coffee somewhere.
5. A very interesting house, it has preserved Gothic elements - windows. And curiously, there are three separate, widely spaced top eyelets for Venetian shutters on two windows. There are four lower consoles, they are located as usual - along the edges of the windows.
6. In my opinion, a great place to have breakfast.
7. While we are waiting for breakfast, you can take a short jog around the area with a camera in order to take a few “atmospheric” (I don’t fully understand the meaning of this word, no one can explain it to me, but it is often used in comments regarding my photos) pictures.
8. A wonderful portal, it’s tempting to find out what’s behind it.
10. Near her is the city fountain. Previously, there were no water pipes, and when they appeared, again, not everyone had them.
11. Near the town hall is the Veliki Kašteo fort. The name is not original; “big castle”, as you understand, means. On repair. They are completely renovating it. And this is what immediately catches your eye here. The internal part is old medieval, before the era of firearms, built by the people of Dubrovnik when they received Ston, i.e. at the beginning of the 14th century. But the external frame, clearly later, from the 15th-16th centuries, is Venetian in style. Remember the fortress walls of Kotor or Old Bar. Meanwhile, I could not find any information about the time of the rebuilding of the fort, nor about the fact that Ston was owned by Venice at that time of transition. Firearms appeared, and all the old fortresses had to be rebuilt due to this revolutionary change in warfare. Mystery. Either Dubrovnik was built using Venetian technologies, or they ordered Venetian craftsmen.
12. Let's go around on the other side. A typical Venetian bastia adjoins the old (now new, remodeled) wall.
13. It’s a pity that you can’t go inside due to reconstruction. But there is a quadcopter. Yes, that's all true. The old fort framed by walls and low turrets is a bastion from the era of the first artillery.
14. Well, since we took off, it makes sense to immediately show everything else interesting from the air. Here is the Big Moan in its entirety. Before us are the ruins of the Church of St. Blaise, more about it a little later. In the distance on the left is the monastery of St. Nicholas, I will show it in a separate post. But behind the monastery, the western section of the wall is similar to the fort from the previous photos, high medieval walls framed by low ones from the era of the advent of firearms. From here you can hardly see them, I really regret that I didn’t go to that part of the walls. Another reason to visit Ston again.
15. Let's raise our flying car higher. Everything is in the palm of your hand - the fort (as I understand it, it used to be connected with the city wall into a single whole, the city, the walls going up the mountain, and even a piece of that very Solana was included in the frame.
16. Here it is, Solana. And the old building has been preserved. Look, its wall was reinforced with buttresses, apparently it had a tendency to fall.
17. Let's return to earth and continue our walk. Church of St. Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik. Also under renovation. History says that the first church was here in the 14th century. It was destroyed several times and suffered during the most destructive earthquake in these parts in 1667. In its current form, combining elements of Gothic and Byzantine styles in masonry, it was built already at the end of the 19th century. Another earthquake in 1979 destroyed the church again. Restoration work is currently underway, and again you can’t get inside.
The oyster capital of Europe, salt marshes that have been in operation since the Middle Ages and a multi-kilometer wall climbing high into the mountains - all this is about the small town of Ston, located on the Peljesac peninsula in Croatia.
Tanya writes the reports here, and I just supplement the text with inserts, which are highlighted in green italics.
Moan
From the western part of Croatia you can get to the city of Ston in two ways - by regular road through Bosnia and Herzegovina or by ferry. In order to diversify the trip and not put two extra stamps on our passports, we chose the second route.
Ferries run between Ploče and Trpanj only a few times a day. It seemed too late for us to leave at 10:15, so we decided to arrive at the ferry, which departed at 7:30. Since we still had to get to Ploce, we had to get up at five o’clock in the morning, and already at that time we felt how hot the sun was: outside, despite the early hour, it was 24 degrees.
Ferry tickets can be purchased online, or directly at the pier at the ticket office. We chose the latter option. It should be clarified that you only get one ticket, and it is valid for any Ploce-Trpanj ferry on that day, that is, the ticket is not tied to a specific time. That's why we left so early to get in line for the ferry leaving at 7:30. We don't know if the schedule changes from year to year, so we recommend checking it on the Jadrolinija ferry company website before your trip.
The cash desk is located in a house across the street from the pier, approximately opposite the middle of the storage area. Finding the ticket office is easy: this is the only establishment where there will be a queue of several people.
Another argument in favor of purchasing tickets on the spot were doubts about whether Serezha needed a separate ticket as a driver. For example, on ferries we only paid for the car and passengers, but not for the driver, since it is believed that a car cannot travel without a driver. It turned out that in Croatia the driver still needs a separate ticket - it costs about 4.5 euros. A ticket for a car will cost 20 euros. And at the ticket office they told us that the ferry takes an hour and a half, and not one, as it was written on the Internet. But in fact it turned out that the Internet was right, and we were on the shore at 8:25.
After loading, there was room on the ship for another 10-15 cars. Here they are not placed as densely as on large ferries that cross, for example, the Baltic Sea. Having parked their cars, people came out onto the deck - everyone except the truck drivers, who remained sleeping next to their cargo.
On the other side, a grape boom awaited us: every now and then we drove past vineyards, wineries and wine shops. We never stopped for a tasting, but we kept wondering - I wonder if the wine here is as sour and dry as sold in Croatian stores?
In general, the landscapes accompanying our journey reminded us very much of Italy, as it is shown in films like “Under the Tuscan Sun.” And everywhere we came across warning signs “wild boars” with a corresponding picture. I've never seen anything like this.
By half past nine we reached Ston and were faced with the same problem in all parking lots: parking meters only accept coins and nothing else! “What century are we living in?” - we thought and went to the nearest stores with a request to exchange our bills for coins. Apparently, we were not the first, because everyone refused us. Luckily for us, there was a bank across the road, where, in addition to exchanging money, we withdrew another 1,100 kuna (about 150 euros) in cash, since when planning the trip we assumed that in Croatia we would be able to pay by card more often.
But the strangeness of paying for parking did not end there. It turned out that you need to pay in advance for the entire stay of the car. How can you come to an unfamiliar city and, even having prepared, determine in advance exactly how many hours you will spend here? Fortunately, parking is cheap. In the end, we decided to pay for 4 hours and paid only 3 euros for it. Surprisingly, in the rest of Ston, cards are accepted everywhere. Even in a public toilet! And only their parking meters remain from the 20th century.
First of all, we went to see the town hall. To be honest, we didn’t find any information about it, although the building is quite nice. There, on the main square of the city, there is a Roman fountain, which was completely dry. Oddly enough, we can’t tell anything about it either - it’s not clear whether it really dates back to Roman times or is just called that.
Not far from them is the Church of St. Vlas. It was closed, but through the glass doors you can see its interior. Construction of this church began in 1342 and lasted three years. Ston became an Episcopal center and the church became a cathedral. There were a lot of parishioners, so in 1392 the church was expanded. The earthquake of 1667 destroyed the building, although overall Ston suffered little damage, and immediately after the earthquake it was decided to restore the cathedral. A repeated earthquake in 1843 destroyed this temple. The current Church of St. Vlas was built in pseudo-Byzantine style in 1875, not far from where the previous churches stood. However, she was also unlucky - the 1996 earthquake destroyed the church again. It was restored only in 2017, so we saw a completely, completely new building.
The next attraction for us was the fort. It was partially under reconstruction, but you can still enter it. The ticket costs 6.5 euros, but it also covers the wall - the most interesting structure of the city, which I will talk about later. At the beginning, by the way, when the fortress had just begun to be reconstructed, they promised cheaper tickets. I don’t know if the restoration is complete and if the ticket price has increased yet.
The fort was built approximately in the 14th-15th centuries and served not only defensive functions, but also served as a headquarters, arsenal and grain storage. Just like 700 years ago, the fortress is surrounded by a moat. However, there was no water here for a long time - the ditch was filled only in May 2017, so here we came for “fresh”.
From the walls of the fort there is a wonderful view of the local salt marshes, where we went immediately after building the fortress. We didn’t go inside for a tour, but just looked at them through the fence. And, to be honest, we didn’t see anyone inside except the employees. The Ston salt mines are the oldest and largest mines in the Mediterranean that have survived to this day. Salt production began in ancient times. And the current appearance of the salt marshes is quite consistent with what it was during the Dubrovnik Republic. The production itself has not changed over the past two hundred years, and workers guarantee that they produce the highest quality salt. The only thing modified in 1925 was transportation. A railroad was built here, along which a locomotive transported wagons of salt from the pools to the warehouses.
But production continued to depend on the number of sunny days - the sun is very important for the crystallization process. If the year is rainy, salt cannot be collected. And so, the average productivity is 1500 tons per year. The largest “harvest” was collected in 1611. Then more than 6,000 tons of salt were mined here. By the way, we bought a little as a souvenir - 500 grams for 1.5 euros - and took it with us to Moscow. It is not bitter and does not contain anti-caking additives - it is always loose without this. But, nevertheless, you should not expect any completely unusual properties from this salt.
After resting a bit in a cafe and eating ice cream, we went to see two more churches. The first of them - St. Liberan of the 17th century - was under reconstruction and nothing could be seen. In addition, apparently, reconstruction is proceeding at a leisurely pace or has been completely suspended.
The other - the Church of St. Nicholas - on the contrary, was preserved very well, but, unfortunately, was closed. The Church of St. Nicholas and the Franciscan monastery of the same name were built in the second half of the 14th century in the Gothic style, but the bell tower was erected already in the 15th century, and it is made in the Renaissance style. The monastery, as well as the Church of St. Vlas, suffered many times from earthquakes.
And finally, after getting to know the city, we went to its walls. As I already wrote, salt has been mined in Ston for four thousand years. Previously, salt was worth its weight in gold, and therefore this place was the cause of wars among many powers for several millennia. When Ston and its salt plantations came under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik, the construction of defensive walls began here to protect the basins from the Venetians and Turks.
The total length of the walls was 5.5 kilometers. The walls had 40 towers and 7 fortifications. The defenders of the city were hiding in them, bravely defending it, which finally made it possible to stop the “salt wars”. Due to its natural wealth, Ston was for a long time, until the arrival of Napoleon in 1808, the second most important city after Dubrovnik. But then salt began to depreciate, and interest in the city began to wane.
Nowadays the Ston Wall is used only for tourism purposes. There are three routes - a short one, which will take 20-30 minutes and will lead from one entrance to another, a long one, which allows you to walk in an hour to the neighboring town of Maly Ston, which I will talk about in detail later, and a route that at the time of our visit is still was under reconstruction. It will allow you to climb to the top of the hill.
Initially, we had grandiose plans, according to which we were going to go along the long route to Maly Ston to eat oysters there. But we had to give up the walk: in the sun the temperature reached 40 degrees, and we had to climb up the stairs with virtually no possibility of being in the shade. In general, the heat runs through our report as a red line. Therefore, you need to understand that if you cannot tolerate high temperatures, then there is nothing to do in Croatia in mid-July. I love the heat, but even for me it was too much and sometimes I wanted only one thing - to find myself in a place with air conditioning.
Even at the entrance to Ston, the wall looks like a grandiose structure, and right next to it you understand especially well how much effort was invested to preserve the independence of the city. The entrance to the wall is located behind the Church of St. Nicholas. There is also a toilet and some shade from trees for mental preparation for the climb :)
After walking around Ston, we went to see the Church of Our Lady of Luzhin. When we arrived, we discovered that the church was surrounded by a fence and the gate was closed. We were already upset when a man, apparently an employee of some neighboring enterprise, drove up and allowed us to walk around the territory.
The church itself has been preserved very well. During the Republic of Dubrovnik, when sea water entered the pools, a procession from the Church of St. Blaise went to the salt marshes, where the blessing of the whole complex was given, and a mass was held in the Church of Our Lady of Luzhin. The prince, salt marsh workers and residents of Ston took part in the mass and procession.
There, not far from the Church of St. Blaise, we were going to see the Church of St. Michael of the 9th century. We wandered along the surrounding dirt roads, walked deep into the bushes, but never found her. Maybe we had the wrong dot in the navigator, or maybe we never noticed the church behind the trees. You can read more about this church.
By the way, everywhere in Ston we came across signs “Napoleonic Way”, but did not know what they were talking about. We later found out that this was a road built by the French army with the participation of local residents. The fact is that before the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, the French were considered one of the strongest naval powers, but then they lost this superiority and began building land roads. The Adriatic region was strategically important, so they tried to build a road here as soon as possible.
We returned to the car and went to Maly Ston - the same one where we first wanted to walk along the wall. Maly Ston is called small because the entire town consists of 10-15 houses, half of which are occupied by restaurants and hotels. But the most interesting thing here is the oyster farm. It would be great to go on an excursion, but we found out in advance that it only takes an hour and costs 100 euros. Therefore, we decided to taste local oysters in the restaurant, for which we ordered a plate of Frutas del mar and ate it with great pleasure. When paying the bill, we noticed that they included a certain Couvert (10 kn x 2, that is, approximately 3 euros). We asked to explain what it was, because we had never encountered anything like this, although we had been to European restaurants several times. The waiter said that this is a business restaurant and we pay for the table we occupy (despite the fact that the restaurant was practically empty). This caused us some surprise, but later on the forums we read that this was payment for what in normal places is called a compliment. And indeed, at the very beginning they brought us bread with tuna pate, which we did not order. But it was served in such a way that one could not doubt that it was really a compliment from the cook and was brought for free. In general, the impression of seafood remained somewhat blurred because of this minor, but still not entirely pleasant episode.
Maly Ston, despite its size, is the oyster capital of Europe. The city supplies its oysters not only to landlocked countries: even France, famous for its seafood, imports shellfish from here. If you are not bothered by the high cost of an excursion to an oyster farm, you can arrange a visit in advance by email [email protected]. The price of the excursion includes a boat ride around the farm, a bottle of wine, and an oyster tasting. More information can be found on the website http://www.malistonoysters.com, but it is not always available.
After walking around the city a little, we headed back. It should be noted that parking in Maly Ston is also paid and also costs 0.75 euros/hour. We decided not to pay and put under the glass the same piece of paper that the parking meter in Veliki Ston gave us, despite the fact that its validity had already expired. There were no consequences from this small offense.
We decided to go back through Bosnia and Herzegovina. We were lucky and there was no queue at the border at all, but on the oncoming road it stretched for kilometers. The landscapes in Bosnia are also quite picturesque. The road runs along the sea, but there is no open area because there is a large island directly opposite. In general, Bosnia has a very, very small coastal area, only about 10 kilometers, and we drove through it in about twenty minutes.
What we didn’t like was the Cyrillic alphabet smeared everywhere, including on the road signs. It would be better to replace them completely than to leave them as they are. Still, “fighting” with any alphabet, just like with any language, is an ignoble matter.
By the way, it was on this road that we came across tents with a lot of very sweet home-made fruit liqueurs. They let us try them out of the fridge and they tasted amazing! We took pear and tangerine, however, when we arrived in Moscow, it turned out that they were not so tasty at home. A year has passed and we still have them. It’s not because their taste has gone bad or we’ve been given the wrong bottles: there are simply some drinks that only drink well in the country where they’re made, and Croatian fruit liqueurs are definitely one of them.
Overall, we were very pleased with our trip to Ston. When we were preparing for the trip, in all the reports we came across the opinion that there was nothing special to do there, because much was destroyed by the earthquake. So, the Croats are actively restoring the city, and when we went, much had already been restored. Well, and look at the “Chinese” wall in Europe - isn’t that interesting?
A map of the attractions of Ston and the surrounding area can be viewed at the link. We remind you that we never found the Church of St. Michael - it is very likely that its location is indicated inaccurately.
* On the fourth day of our holiday in Budva, having a Schengen visa, it was a sin not to use it. And we rushed with my husband and daughter in a rented car to Dubrovnik, on the advice of my Slovenian colleagues from work, we stopped in the town of Ston and finally this year we ended up in the restaurant “Konavski Dvor” recommended to us back in 2012 or it is also called “Konavolskie” Yards."
* But everything is in order, we left Budva at 8:40, refueled at Lukoil and drove along the Adriatic Highway (Jadranski put) along the Bay of Kotor to the Kamenari-Lepetani ferry crossing. 10 minutes and we are at the pier on the other side of the bay for 4.5 euros per car, we drive past the cozy village of Bijela, then to Herceg Novi along the E-65 highway along Jadranska magistrala, then driving along a beautiful bridge with a suspended structure, the Bridge Dr. Franjo Tudjman Bridge, it was renamed in honor of the first President of Croatia. The bridge is 520 meters long and just under 150 meters high - it is not only an architectural masterpiece and a memory of the leader of the early post-communist era, it is also a training facility for bungee jumping fans. Previously, the bridge was called Gruz or Gruz (depending on the name of the port).
* It’s a pity that they couldn’t take my husband’s sister on the trip with us, because... she didn't have a visa. In October 2012, we crossed the border of Montenegro and Croatia for the first time without this visa; there was some kind of agreement between Russia and Croatia until the end of October 2012 for Russian tourists to visit Croatia without a visa. At that time, we didn’t even think about crossing the border by presenting our international passports, technical passport and insurance for the car we rented. We put stamps in the passport and forward to Dubrovnik. I even wrote a review then and posted a few photos. For a long time we couldn’t park in Dubrovnik to get to the Old Town; we only had Euro cars, and the parking terminal required kuna. We looked for a bank or an exchanger for a long time and never found it, we parked in a dead-end area and went to look for a bank in the Old Town and almost bypassing it we found one bank street, there were as many as 6 banks and exchangers, but it was too late to drink Borjomi.. the saigas ran to the car, They were so afraid of tow trucks!!!
*This year we think everything will be fine with the euro, they are already in the European Union, but no, all payments are made in kunas, even leaving the car in a guarded parking lot, they could not leave it for a long time, because the kunas were spent on souvenirs for my daughter, and the parking machine did not accept euros. In general, I again had to use a trick, go to the paid toilet in the parking lot and exchange the treasured piece of paper for 15 euros for kunas with the guy who kept the toilet and go further. Parking for 2 hours 25 minutes cost approximately 9 euros in conversion from kuna to euro. (10 euros=73 kunas). After showing our daughter the places in Dubrovnik that we were already familiar with, we headed towards the islands. Past the huge port. We are eating in the car and suddenly in front of us is a huge house, 10 floors, we drive closer, and this is an airliner. I have never even seen such sizes in Which. Further 4 km from Dubrovnik, there was the Great Zaton, protruding from the mainland opposite the island of Vir, near the ancient city of Nin on the northern coast of the peninsula. At the Zaton resort, guests will be pleasantly pleased with a beautiful one and a half kilometer beach with pebbles and sand, which is surrounded by forest. Thanks to the convenient entrance to the sea, the beach is also suitable for small children. It has been awarded the so-called Blue Flag for cleanliness.
* Then there was the resort village of Trsteno, about 16 km from Dubrovnik, located on the coast of South Dalmatia. Trsteno became famous thanks to the arboretum, founded at the end of the 15th century near the summer residence of the Dubrovnik princely family Gučetićů-Gozze. This is the largest botanical garden on the Croatian coast and the oldest park in all of Dalmatia, it’s a pity, but we flew past, because the goal was Ston. We passed Sipan - an island located 17 km northwest of Dubrovnik.
* Sipan is located in the southern part of Croatia. Sipan is the largest and most populated of the islands of the Elaphite archipelago of the Adriatic Sea. The area of the island is 16.22 square meters. km, length is 9.1 kilometers, and width is 2.6 kilometers.
* And finally, Ston appeared - this is a resort village located on the isthmus of the Pilešac peninsula and the mainland, 70 km from Dubrovnik. We spent a long time looking for a suitable beach with good parking for our little one, but the coastline and the road are located very close to each other. We found a good beach, parking and a road with no traffic. After swimming with a mask, I again caught myself thinking that there was nothing to see except algae in the form of grass, inconspicuous fish and loose pebbles. The sea is clean, transparent, and there are few marine inhabitants.
* This time we didn’t get to Korcula, a port city located on a peninsula and connected to the island of the same name by a narrow isthmus; we had to go back. But on the way back we were all pleased with the local colorful restaurant with national cuisine “Konavoski Dvori”. Two years ago we didn’t find it, there was only one sign and due to the construction of a new road we flew past the turn we needed and drove to the border. And this year we saw several restaurant signs and followed them. The road first goes towards the border with Montenegro, but then turns left, and goes along the Prevlaka peninsula, through the most hidden places of the Dubrovnik Riviera, through the town of Molunat, which has a real atmosphere of a Croatian village, to Ljuta, where one of the best restaurants in Dubrovnik is located Konavoski Dvori. And now we are at the goal, we can hear the sound of water. The restaurant is located on the banks of a mountain river with waterfalls, surrounded by ancient mills and shady trees. To say that it was fabulously beautiful there would be nothing to say. My daughter and I were lightly dressed, the weather was hot in Dubrovnik, but by the time we got to the restaurant, it became much cooler from the mountain water. And the waiter in national clothes who met us invited us to enter the restaurant, although many visitors were enjoying their food on the street near the waterfall. My daughter even brought a blanket, she was so cold. The pleasant atmosphere, national cuisine and a beautiful view through the panoramic window made our dinner unforgettable. The menu was brought to us in Russian and, having made an order, we went with our daughter to take pictures, it was already starting to get dark, and the lights of the waterfall itself, the water mills turned on, national music sounded, and we, having warmed up and eaten, melted in this Courtyard. Photos, unfortunately, cannot convey all the atmosphere and colors, but I assure you it will be unforgettable. If anyone manages to visit Croatia next year, I highly recommend this restaurant.
*By the way, in Ston there is a cool restaurant Kapetanova Kuča, Mali Ston, friends also recommended it to us.
For reference: A family restaurant located in a former captain's house in a village that dates back to 1333. A favorite place with locals, it’s almost always packed. Mali Ston is a unique place, as it is the only bay in the world where ostrea edulis is grown - small round oysters, once found in France, California and Japan.
* In addition to the Ston peninsula, we wanted to visit another of the Korcula islands, it’s a pity we didn’t have enough time, we just arrived at the beach at 15:00 and took a long swim in Ston. I still like the beaches of Montenegro better. Croatia is more rocky and the beaches are mostly loose pebbles. But I judge this only by the two beaches that we were able to reach that day.
* Without stopping, the whole journey would have taken us 3 hours (145 km), but since we stopped everywhere, visited the Old Town of Dubrovnik, swam on the beach in Ston, ate in a restaurant, we went back only at 19 o’clock, fortunately there was a border already close. We arrived in Budva only at 20:00, on the way to Tivat we stopped at the HDL 365 supermarket, and only at 21:00 were we in Panorama. Svetlana was able to visit the Cetinje Monastery and Ostrog that day, and for the rest of the evening we shared our impressions of the trips.
I hope the photos will brighten up my story a little.
* I understand that in one day we were able to see and show our daughter little in Croatia, but these were unforgettable hours.